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Lyell, one of the first boutiques to go the route of having a store front, then a store brand, then a runway show for the store brand, has a creepy-dreamy spring look-book up on their website presently (as well as their fall 08 premiere runway show). The Spring line is a little 40s vintage and a little 'Wonder Years' and a lot wearable either as a collection (as this pretty thing photographed by fashionista shows) or piece by piece. Fall collection has a similar theme, but in more seasonally appropriate fabrics and palette; as though the spring dream girl has grown up into an authoritative lady. Lyell is located in NYC on Elizabeth street and refinery29 sometimes carries a selection of their collection online.
lace is frilly, delicate, tender, and ultra femme yes? no. not for miuccia prada. her lace is handmade (moneymoneymoneyyy), modern, dense, while retaining an airiness as lended by the sheerness of the fabrics, and forceful without being overpowering. check out the whole collection on style.com its alll good. prince out ya'll.
london fashion week started yesterday. so we, you, have several more weeks of runway chatter. im worse than a 7year old during a movie; plenty of comments and 2cents for every scene. hooray! this post is somewhat of an amalgam of pictures left adrift on my desktop and the first showings from london fash week. ive said it before and ill say it again: fall is the most expensive season. really you should shop at a thrift store for spring and summer barring a few pairs of shoes and other timely accessories and save everything for the cold months because you will be sorry once that cheap ass H&M coat's zipper breaks in the middle of an ice storm at 9pm walking home from studio. i got with the program this year and paid dearly for boots, classic cardigans&sweaters, tights, and jeans; the things i wear every day of the fall and winter months. to my credit they have lasted, worn well, and kept me frostbite free. fall always heralds print, pattern, and texture as well which may be a defense mechanism to combat the gray, cold days and sparse sunlight. excellent use of the three are as follows: alexander herchovich, temperley, eley kishimoto, and best of all, louise goldin with her sci-fi quilty-padded knits and topshop unique for super-sized sweaters and slick leathers. awesommeee.
thats what we do. we as in american designers. our over-riding fashion heritage: classic sportswear. Perry Ellis, Bill Blass, Geoffrey Beene, Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Marc Jacobs, Donna Karen. All iconic american designers, not to say other designers born in american are not american('merican for those readers fluent in appallacian), but american designers as the driving concept of wearability and heritage. as a world power with no blood royalty our political royalty and business tycoons have always swathed themselves in breathless, oft nautical or apres-ski-esque garments that exude vitality and, as ridiculous as this will sound, apple pie and freedom. what is more american than jeans and a plaid shirt with a cardigan jauntily tied around the shoulders at a chiller of a clam bake or back yard bar-b-que? keds and kegs; classic red white and blue good times. which is why friday i got a little giddy for the tried and true classics revamped by our own designers. below for clothes to salute and pledge allegiance to: (3 each L to R: Marc Jacobs, Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein)
Even though today is the last day of NY fashion week (then on to paris, milan, london, and then and then and then) things are perking up! i do not recant my cynicism of earlier ny fash week posts because that shit is not doin it for me. do i deny its existence? no. will i purchase it/partake in its trend that will soon spawn? no. do i think it is worthless? no. i just dont like it and that is that. however my tastes skew a little off from general american in design xyz. ok, enough, on to the goods. shipley & halmos (of trovata) showed men's and women's looks yesterday and they are really wearable. the types of this i wish i had right now, very season-less, not too sweet not too salty just right. zero maria cornejo also had some great, clean, effective looks. monochromatic for the most part but the details and styling set them apart from the usual all-black fashion uniform. lastly, y&kei showed some very desirable ali mcgraw-on-acid looks. and i am about it. fall/winter 08 wardrobe title: 70s collegiate-beat-rockabilly-on-both-quaaludes-and-pcp. i can get into that. (images l-r 2 of each: shipley&halmos; zeromariacornejo; y&kei)
so, NY fashion week is coming along and there is a lot more boring nonsense. matronly frocks, pants so wide even the Ukranian models look obese, knee length everything, excessive bows and brocades, and other shit that i cannot recall because i dont want to nor do i care to. cathy horyn noted that there is a surplus of embellishment in what should more forwardly be a time of cleaner modernism. clutter of trim and gilt looks tired and old and almost condescending in the face of a recession and following several seasons of more and more is more. though not all of my commentary is scornful or depressed, i pulled the following images which i will personally be adapting as wardrobe direction. you can do what you please, but please, keep your neck bows, frills, and crushed velvet far away from me. (images l-r: benjamin cho, thakoon, karen walker)
so, youll be impressed, im programming cheats into my TI-83 plus calculator for a test tomorrow, scarfing Aloo Matar, chugging a corona, and snarking all over this weekends fashion shows. oh and watching that millionaire matchmaker show on bravo! Multi tasking to the extreme. Firstly, oh my god this millionare dude is BORING. TO FUCKING DEATH! i mean i know his matchmaker date is a vapid surgically enhanced drone but still! robots have a limit on awkward conversation. oh. thats my girl, draining her booze to make the date less hellish. ok on to the fashion: so BCBG, nicole miller, baby phat, erin fetherston, among others showed over the weekend. and get ready women ages 14-140: shit is gonna suck. medieval flappers nonsense and other grasping at straw trends. erin fetherston grew up a little from coquette into gamine, which is appreciated, but everything else so far is eh bordering on lame**. jezebel comments aptly and comically on the shows so far. whats more exciting is patrick robinson is grand poo-bah of the Gap and shit is lookin tight! please see above photo and this article for patrick's achievements thus far and plans for the american brand.
**alexandre herchcovich is so rad it gets it own post
omg fall 08 fashion week is in two weeks! couture shows are on now! but! some of your and my favorites will not be showing this year at bryant park, namely vena cava and heatherette and probably a few more that will surface as time rolls around. vena cava is not showing because they have had such a huge amount of new accounts that they are focusing on taking care of their bizznizz instead of showing in the tents. heatherette will show in their studio but not on the tents, however they did design ice skating outfits for a skating competition that was on sunday. heatherettes ruled, tracey reese, who also designed rink-attire for the event, drooled. and are you surprised that richie rich was a figure skater before becoming designer-cum-club-kid extraordinaire? i'm not. pls see the television-photo for heatherette-costume-vibe.
